By Shepherd Ogden; Natural Organic Farmers Association
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The salts are screened for size and if you put the smallest ones under a powerful microscope, you'll see that they, too are tiny uneven flakes. This kosher salt is inexpensive, which makes it practical; it is delicious and infinitely useful but not dear. Toss it into pasta water, use it for brining, preserving and fermenting, for finishing. Other flake salts are interesting, delicious, and fun to use as condiments. Maldon Sea Salt Flakes is produced in Essex, England, by heating a saturated brine, similar to how Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt is made.
Salt farming has become a popular profession in France. In each of the regions, there are new training schools with more applicants than positions. In America in the early 1970s, young people headed to rural areas to live closer to the land and escape increasingly corporate sources of food. In France, young people flock to the West Coast for the same reasons, for the innocence and rhythm of farming salt. It adds to the perceived romance of the salt itself; photographs show beautiful young men (Frenchmen, at that), clad in nothing more than denim shorts, long hair tousled by the coastal winds, raking piles of glittering crystals from aquamarine pools.
Cargill maintains the familiar name of Leslie as a brand, along with nearly a hundred other custom-labeled brands, from Hain Sea Salt to Safeway Iodized Table Salt, all the same salt from the same source, but with various additions made according to the customer’s specifications. The company has reduced the area devoted to salt production (but not the yield, because of improved crystallization and harvesting techniques), and sold and donated ten thousand acres for marsh restoration to the California Department of Fish and Game.