By Joe Kertzman
Let writer Don Fogg assist you construct of 1 of the large blades, the long lopper - the sword! His step by step sword-making method resonates good with fans who cannot get adequate of the romance, background, glance, believe, usefulness, ethnic history and actual impressiveness of swords.
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I rub out the blade by putting the paste on a cotton pad, replenishing the pad with the paste when it darkens and is not as fluid. Simichrome will leave a waxy residue on the blade that can be cleaned up with pumice on a cotton ball. This process is time consuming and is only finished when you decide the blade finish looks as good as you can make it. I usually stop before the final finish to make the habaki [handle charm] and fittings for the handle. Whenever you stop for the day, or an extended period of time, oil the blade to prevent rust.
The author’s quenching tongs are bent so that the quenching tank doesn’t have to be nearly as long as would be necessary if straight tongs were used. ELIMINATE WARPING Inevitably, with long blades, you will get some warping and distortion. Good normalizing practice prior to hardening will help but not eliminate warping. There are several ways you can correct warping after the blade has been heat treated. If the blade has been selectively hardened using clay on the back, you can often correct the warp by hammering the blade using a round-faced hammer.
A close-up of the sword tip depicts its geometry. Below the blade is a finishing stone in a rinsing solution. SANS STONE SCRATCHES I start with 180-grit paper to remove the stone scratches and finish both side before moving to the next grit. When one side is completed, I put a strip of masking tape down the length to keep the surface from scratching when I flip it over to do the other side. After all of the underlying scratches have been removed, I switch to 400-grit paper on the sanding bar and, going in the opposite direction, proceed to sand out all of the 180-grit scratches.