By Beryl Peters; Jan Barnes
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Additional resources for Cheese & wine
In Ireland, the cheese is marketed at this early age, when the interior is supple and the rind still moist and sticky. But because the cheese is made from raw milk, it must be aged at least sixty days to enter the United States, so the Durrus sold in this country is two to three months old. The rind is dry and may be orange to brown and powdered with white mold. The semisoft paste will be a deep gold with many small eyes, and the fragrance will fill a room with the mingled aromas of Brazil nuts, earth, and bread yeast.
Bayley Hazen Blue is released after seventy-five to ninety days. By then, it has developed a natural rind dusted with powdery white molds. Inside, the ivory paste is rippled with well-spaced, blue-green veins. The texture is creamy yet crumbly, a little drier than most blue cheeses. The aroma can be baconlike, with hints of smoke and meat. The flavor is mellow, sweet, and approachable, without the bite of many blues. Choose a dessert wine with concentration and depth, such as Banyuls, Muscat de Rivesaltes, or tawny port.
Others prefer it when it is still a little firm at the core. It ripens from the outside in, so you can estimate its readiness by gently pressing the surface. The degree of resistance will tell you whether it has reached the stage you like. The state of the rind provides another clue, as it develops some golden or reddish stippling as the cheese ages. The more marking, the riper the cheese. To achieve the silky, moist interior characteristic of fine Camembert, the fresh curds must be handled gently.